Ambling along the streets of Paris, I can’t tell you the joy of coming face-to-face with the curving glass facade of department store Samaritaine. Having enjoyed the work of Japanese architecture studio SANAA in the Art Gallery of NSW in Sydney, it was delightful to realise that this is also their work, completed in 2020. The size and scale of the building directly matches the surrounding buildings, all of which are that classic Haussmann size – bigger than a house, smaller than a skyscraper. These singular proportions are what make Paris Paris. At the same size, Samaritaine stands out for its materiality – undulating glass waves that create an opacity to the interiors while matching the size of the fenestrations of the buildings opposite, reflected as ghostly apparitions in the glass. Inside, a glass atrium contains a mini forest, softening the whole building and its contents.

Interestingly, this not my first experience of delighting in a glass facade in Paris. Designed by Jean Nouvel, the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in the Raspail also has a stunning glass facade, which presents as a gridded wall of glass to the street, behind which both the interiors and garden are visible as you walk past. I remember visiting the building in the mid-2000s and finding that mix of hard modern glass and soft green garden peeking from behind a delicious contrast.
I was sorry to hear that the Fondation Cartier will be moving to a new building on the Rue de Rivoli at the end of 2025. Jean Nouvel is redesigning the interiors of this one, a Haussmannian building just near the Louvre and while I’m sure it will be fantastic, I do hope the Jean Nouvel building in the Raspail continues to have a life.
