Ethics in Practice: Fashion design with High Tea with Mrs Woo

By Penny Craswell

High Tea with Mrs Woo was a proponent of slow fashion before the term was even invented. The label is run by three sisters from Newcastle – Rowena, Juliana and Angela Foong – who began their careers in fashion running a second-hand clothing store while they were at university. Right from the beginning, the trio were all about recycling, remaking and making the most of existing fashion. “We were upcycling pre-loved garments, sourcing vintage fabrics and using deadstock fabrics from a remnant warehouse,” explains Rowena Foong, “but we weren’t making enough money to pay the rent!”

Rowena, Juliana and Angela Foong from High Tea with Mrs Woo. Photo: Alexander McIntyre

The next step was to create their own fashion label, High Tea with Mrs Woo, which was launched in 2004. And it’s fair to say that it has been a remarkable success – not only has the brand received awards and acclaim, it has achieved longevity in a field that’s all about what’s new. All three sisters are still based in Newcastle, still in the same retail store and manufacturing from their studio workshop 15–18 years on. They are also still producing garments by their own hands using high quality natural fibre fabrics.

The slow fashion ethos also extends to their release of new collections. “We were struggling with the model of creating collections for indent wholesale ordering, and the pace and pressure of designing ‘new’ all the time,” explains Rowena. “So we phased it out over the years to focus on refining and producing key styles that, for us, were great investment wardrobe pieces to work for a good range of customers. This also means that it’s easier for our customers to add to their collection, to wear back into their existing wardrobe. Today, we release these offerings throughout the year in-store and on-line.”

Eclipse Top, Black Cactus by High Tea with Mrs Woo. Photo: supplied

The brand also has a private Facebook group where you can buy and sell pre-loved High Tea with Mrs Woo garments. It’s a safe, respectful place for people to retire and on-sell, and get a chance to collect or add, a Mrs Woo garment to their wardrobe. Rowena explains: “Most of our long-time customers are so happy and proud to tell us that they’re still wearing that dress from 10 years ago, that jacket from 2007, those pants that are still going strong three years on! But not all clothes are right or suitable for all time. Our bodies change, our situations, our styles too. So we recently launched a marketplace for selling and buying pre-loved High Tea with Mrs Woo garments. We are encouraging our customers to keep these garments in use for as long as possible.”

The ethics of design is a topic that we explore a lot on this blog, and this series “Ethics in Practice” aims to explore how designers can make changes in their work that will make a positive impact on the environment and culture. Rowena says: “I heard in a podcast recently that decisions made during the design phase are responsible for 80% of environment and economic cost of a product. So yes, designers have one of the most important roles to play in the world that we live in right now and into the future.”

High Tea with Mrs Woo created a Slow Wearing Well weekend event last August 2018 in Newcastle. They hosted LIVE Wardrobe Edit sessions as a way to expose a ‘wardrobe’ so that they could talk about clothing. “It really is the basic starting point for anyone, everyone! to see where they’re at, what they have, who they are, what they need… and how to from now,” says Rowena. This year, Mrs Woo have already hosted a Live Wardrobe Edit session at Tamworth Regional Council’s Waste Warrior Expo (in February) and another one is in planning for September (to be confirmed) for Lake Macquarie City Council’s Living Smart Festival.

High Tea with Mrs Woo workshop. Photo: Alexander McIntyre

Now the brand is also moving into video via Instagram TV (IGTV), using it to bring customers behind the scenes into the workshop. Rowena: “We’ve had really positive feedback and interest from our friends and customers that they love seeing what we’re up to. They can understand where we’re coming from and they can engage with us more readily. We have a lot to say – there’s so much more to what we make that we think is important to talk about – so this has been a lovely space for us to do that.” You can watch these videos on the IGTV link to their Instagram feed @highteawithmrswoo or on their Facebook page.

It’s refreshing to see a fashion brand that is not focused simply on selling more but is interested in the customer’s emotional connection to the work, and at the same time has one eye on the environment. A true example of design ethics in practice.

See below for High Tea with Mrs Woo’s principles of Slow Wearing Well.

High Tea with Mrs Woo. Photo: supplied

Principles of Slow Wearing Well by High Tea with Mrs Woo

We are encouraging their customers, friends, family and greater community to benefit from Slow Wearing Well as a healthy, workable approach to their wardrobe by considering these three things:

  • When you’re shopping, be curious and mindful. Find local purveyors you can trust, that align with your values – your style! Invest in goods that are good for you and good on you.
  • When you’re laundering, be learned and attentive. Know what materials your clothes are made of, which detergents, why dry clean. Understand how to look after them. Let them live long and full lives.
  • When you’re getting dressed, be inspired – be proud! Know what you want and what you have. Be selective. Wear them well, wear them for a long time.

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